I spent last weekend in the Great North Woods of Vermont to observe a family ritual that is older than I am: bird hunting. We convene annually in the early fall at Camp. (Note to a certain republican presidential candidate, should you happen to stumble across this blog: sometimes the simplest name is really the best choice.) Camp is a rustic three-room cabin built and shared by two families, although the clan boundaries are in name only – I think we all agree that we are kin.
Camp has been a very special place for me since childhood. This is partly because of my love of nature (that my father the hunter taught me to love the woods was no accident.) It is partly because of the comfort of family and ritual. And it is partly because of the food.
You see, visits to camp are essentially an exercise in gluttony. We bring coolers laden with every imaginable food that can be cooked on a temperamental gas range. There are eggs and sausage and maple syrup by the gallon. There are mountains of deli meat, a dazzling assortment of cheeses and finger foods, and several pecks of apples. At dinnertime, comfort food is king – we partake in savory stews, soups, and flavorful grilled meats.
There are certain matters on which we do not agree at Camp. Nowhere is this more evident than at the breakfast table where one will routinely find a chaotic assembly of butter, I Can’t Believe It’s Not Butter, Smart Balance, half and half, skim milk, and Coffee-Mate. It’s a veritable culinary United Nations. There are certain matters that defy compromise. But we all agree that there is a time and place for bacon, and my father makes the best pancakes in the world. I do my best to keep my whole food snobbery under wraps.
On our second night together we dined on a moose ragout, but of course, we don’t use words like ragout at camp. We favor the tongue in cheek “Clara Stew” to describe the dinner made from an animal that was shot, named, butchered, and preserved by one of our own. Make no bones about it (and pardon the pun): although we go home empty-handed more often than not, this is a hunters’ camp.
Having worn at different points in my life the badges of health-conscious pescetarian, militant vegan, and culinary hedonist, I have ultimately come around to a more-or-less comfortable relationship with hunting. I don’t partake in the sport myself, but not out of any moral objection. Rather, I just never really learned how. I have relished the visceral thrill of firing a gun, although my targets have only ever been paper.
I have made my peace with the occasional dead animal slumped in a cooler. It’s not easy to look one’s dinner in the eye, but I think it’s important to remember that our meals were not born in Styrofoam packaging. In a culture that promotes mindless eating, I believe hunting is the noblest way to eat meat.

Which is why it’s ironic that I had to drive ten miles to the nearest one-light town to buy chicken in Styrofoam packaging on our last night. I used it to make a hearty Dijon Chicken Stew with garlic mashed potatoes. Our mighty hunters tried, you see. It’s just that those wild birds are so awfully hard to catch. As it turns out, gluttony and hunting rarely go hand in hand. One must take a little help where one can get it.